Keep a look around to make sure you are not about to get washed into someone's path, or that you are not immediately behind someone who may lose hold of their board - it can be quite scary seeing an oncoming wave complete with 9 foot of longboard wrapped up in it!.

I'd say your first twenty-foot drop could achieve this rare medical phenomenon fairly easily. If you are on the ideal beginners board the wave will not have to be that big, and you will hardly need to paddle at all. With a bit of luck you should have caught your first wave. A big wave surfer, is someone who lives quite literally on the edge of life. "How to Catch Waves" - It's taken some time but here we are at Surfing Lesson One. We are going to skip this at the moment, and it will be covered in Surfing Lesson Four. Always stay relaxed, no matter how hard your getting pounded. For more detail about waves in general take a quick look at the Waves page. For more detail about waves in general take a quick look at the Waves page. Oh, perhaps the wave on the left is not quite the right wave to start on.

Catching Waves - Place your board at your side, nose facing into the beach. Nowadays there are very good underwater breathing devices or "spare air." I would not recommend depending on these, but it wouldn't hurt to have a back-up air supply with you. Second, your feet will be closer to the reef instead of your head in case the turbulence bangs you into the reef. Hold the board out at arms length with a hand on each rail.

Safety Devices. A swim fin stuffed in your wetsuit is also useful in case you end up swimming back to shore without a board. Commitment - Once you have the wave, take a few extra paddles, and I mean put some power into your paddle. Holding your breath for a long time can help build your confidence. On a very small, light board you may have to work a little harder. At all times keep one mind on the safety aspect any all should be OK. It is more fun getting straight into the waves and having a mess around than getting all sandy on the beach. Many attributes go into the character of such a person. Popping up is the term used where the surfer has caught the wave and goes from the paddling position, lying on top of board, to the upright stand up position. If you are surfing alone, always remember that the ocean is your friend and that God is always with you. I'd say your first twenty-foot drop could achieve this rare medical phenomenon fairly easily. You should feel the board rise in the water as the wave picks you up and your speed in the water increases. In this case all big wave surfers are your amigos! Know where your brothers are at all times. In this case all big wave surfers are your amigos! Know where your brothers are at all times. When you are lying on top of your surfboard, paddle with both arms as the wave starts to pick you up. The important thing is to have a plan when the big sets come. State of Mind - Always go out with a super positive attitude. Always be scanning the horizon for giant rogue waves that will come in and surprise you. So take it from me, paddle extra hard and be committed to the wave! Bailout - A good bailout procedure is to dive down feet first using your arms to propel you down. Big wave surfers go where no other creatures, let alone humans, have ever been. We all have to look out for each other, basic first aid and simply being alert will minimize the threat of injury or even worse. Nowadays there are very good underwater breathing devices or "spare air." I would not recommend depending on these, but it wouldn't hurt to have a back-up air supply with you. A rogue wave is a wave that doubles up with another and becomes a super wave twice the size of the largest wave of the day! That's the one you want to ride, and for sure the one you don't want to get caught inside by. Cheyne Horan once told me about a very powerful day at Waimea Bay where a surfer had dropped all the way down the face of this wave, but the wave had so much water moving up it so rapidly, that the surfer actually got sucked back up the face of the wave backwards while still standing. Just as the wave is about to reach you, push the surfboard towards the beach and at the same time pull yourself on to the board, so you are lying flat on top of it - not too near the nose of the board or you will end up going straight underwater.

Waves To Start Surfing On - For your first days surfing the waves should be small, being easy enough for you to walk out to where the waves are breaking, and not have to fight your way off the beach being constantly battered by waves (remember that surfing should be fun!). Always be scanning the horizon for giant rogue waves that will come in and surprise you. A swim fin stuffed in your wetsuit is also useful in case you end up swimming back to shore without a board. Commitment - Once you have the wave, take a few extra paddles, and I mean put some power into your paddle. Always stay relaxed, no matter how hard your getting pounded. A lot of underwater free diving will help you out here. Keep going out until you are at a comfortable depth. Ten-foot boards with extra thickness can also be very useful. Buddy System - It's best to surf with your amigos. Popping up is the term used where the surfer has caught the wave and goes from the paddling position, lying on top of board, to the upright stand up position. Eccentric, esoteric, eclectic, no words can describe the big wave surfer. We are going to skip this at the moment, and it will be covered in Surfing Lesson Four. More people have been in outer space than have ridden thirty-foot waves. Popping up is the term used where the surfer has caught the wave and goes from the paddling position, lying on top of board, to the upright stand up position.

Waves To Start Surfing On - For your first days surfing the waves should be small, being easy enough for you to walk out to where the waves are breaking, and not have to fight your way off the beach being constantly battered by waves (remember that surfing should be fun!). To be one of the few, the proud, the fearless, you must take that first "balls in your stomach" drop. Keep an eye on the waves that are coming towards you and pick one that looks like it is big enough to pick you up and take you in. Popping up is the term used where the surfer has caught the wave and goes from the paddling position, lying on top of board, to the upright stand up position. We all have to look out for each other, basic first aid and simply being alert will minimize the threat of injury or even worse. With a bit of luck you should have caught your first wave. A big wave surfer, is someone who lives quite literally on the edge of life. A swim fin stuffed in your wetsuit is also useful in case you end up swimming back to shore without a board. Commitment - Once you have the wave, take a few extra paddles, and I mean put some power into your paddle. Water Safety - Learn CPR - If we all learn this, not only are we surfers, but lifesavers too. Eccentric, esoteric, eclectic, no words can describe the big wave surfer. Nowadays there are very good underwater breathing devices or "spare air." I would not recommend depending on these, but it wouldn't hurt to have a back-up air supply with you. If you are surfing alone, always remember that the ocean is your friend and that God is always with you. You should feel the board rise in the water as the wave picks you up and your speed in the water increases. State of Mind - Always go out with a super positive attitude. A swim fin stuffed in your wetsuit is also useful in case you end up swimming back to shore without a board. Commitment - Once you have the wave, take a few extra paddles, and I mean put some power into your paddle. You should feel the board rise in the water as the wave picks you up and your speed in the water increases. Many attributes go into the character of such a person. Owning an eleven foot gun does not get you membership into this club, but you do receive an application.